Ian Froeb's STL 100 (2017 archive)

Bogart's Smokehouse

The success of Bogart’s Smokehouse is no mystery. In a town now lousy with pitmasters, Skip Steele truly deserves to be called a master, and Bogart’s would be a destination for ’cue hounds were it to offer nothing more than his peppery, sweet pork ribs, their apricot glaze caramelized with a butane torch. Of course, Steele serves more than ribs, including outstanding burnt ends, pastrami and tri-tip steak. The mystery is how, over six years in which Bogart’s hasn’t lost any popularity, the restaurant has managed not to grow beyond its narrow Soulard storefront. It’s a testament to Steele’s barbecue wizardry that Bogart’s long lines and cozy seating arrangements have become part of the restaurant’s charm. If you do need a break from the crowd, check out Dalie’s Smokehouse, the satellite Steele and business partner Mike Emerson (of Pappy’s) opened in Valley Park.

Hours: 10:30 a.m.-4 p.m. Monday-Saturday

Opened: 2011

Must order: Pastrami (sandwich $11.99, plate $15.99)

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