Ian Froeb's STL 100 (2017 archive)

Byrd & Barrel

Let’s get the disappointing news out of the way. Byrd & Barrel has taken its brief selection of more ambitious main courses off its menu. I’ll pine for their return while I scarf down another order of Nugz, the meaty, spicy buttermilk-brined fried-chicken nuggets that are the main item here. (If I’m feeling frisky, and it’s available, I’ll order the half a bird fried.) New additions to the menu over the past year include a beer-cheese soup that’s awfully close to eating straight-up queso or rarebit with a spoon, which is not a criticism, and the Bobby Umami Burger, which gilds two skinny patties with American cheese and mushroom-dashi mayonnaise.

Hours: Lunch and dinner daily

Opened: 2015

Must order: Buttermilk fried chicken, half-bird ($12) or Nugz ($4 and up)