Ian Froeb's STL 100 (2017 archive)

Photo by Chris Lee (Post-Dispatch)

Kounter Kulture

I’ve labeled Kounter Kulture as new, but it’s really an evolution of Kitchen Kulture, the pop-up restaurant and farmers-market stall operated by Christine Meyer and Mike Miller, which itself was part of the STL 100 in 2015 and 2016. The brick-and-mortar operation retains the spunky, upstart spirit and the commitment to quality local ingredients. Though the space is tiny — there is no indoor seating — the cooking is ambitious. Dishes draw inspiration from Japan, Korea, China, Vietnam and Thailand, sometimes reverently (perfect pork-shrimp gyoza), sometimes playfully (a steamed bun “po’boy” with fried catfish).

Hours: 4:30-9:30 p.m. Monday-Saturday

Last year's ranking: new

Opened: 2012 (as Kitchen Kulture)

Must order: Catfish po'boy steamed bun ($6)