I can’t choose a favorite sandwich at Salume Beddu, the world-class salumeria in Lindenwood Park that’s also one of St. Louis’ best lunch spots. From the beginning, I’ve loved the sandwich with speck, Gruyere and preserved lemon — as elegant as it is restrained — and the Beast, which tops Salume Beddu’s spicy salsiccia with peperonata. In recent years, with a kid now in tow, I’ve discovered that, in addition to all of his Italian cured meats, Marc Sanfilippo can also turn out a top-notch hot dog. Lately, however, I’ve fallen hard for the porchetta sandwich, which would be incredible with just the pork itself but is sublime with the accents of braised fennel, sott’aceto and horseradish sauce, and I’ve flirted with the roasted-bacon sandwich with radicchio, a squash puree and harissa. But even if I can’t choose a favorite, I (and you) can’t go wrong.
Update: Salume Beddu has relocated its lunch and retail operations to Parker's Table in Richmond Heights.
Hours: 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Saturday (Parker's Table open 9 a.m.-7 p.m. Monday-Saturday)
Must order: Porchetta sandwich ($11)