Ian Froeb's STL 100 (2017 archive)

Photo by Laurie Skrivan (Post-Dispatch)

Spice-n-Grill

I’d love to tell you that there was a rigorous scientific process behind the STL 100 that allowed me to visit every restaurant I wanted. There isn’t enough time in the day, and there aren’t enough calories in this universe. A place I love can fall through the cracks, which is what happened over the first two editions of this list with Spice-n-Grill, Zahid and Shaheena Khan’s small Indian and Pakistani restaurant in University City. The menu doesn’t feature that many dishes, but what Shaheena does cook is beautifully seasoned and, if you like heat, spicy without sacrificing flavor. Highlights include the biryanis (chicken, lamb or goat) and nihari, a stew with beef or goat with an invigorating punch of ginger.

Hours: Dinner daily, lunch Tuesday-Sunday

Last year's ranking: new

Opened: 2011

Must order: Beef nihari ($11.95)