Brasserie by Niche
Gerard Craft’s Brasserie by Niche turns 10 years old in 2019, but you could probably convince a first-time diner the restaurant was twice or even three times as old. You could probably also convince a first-time diner Brasserie is brand-new. The former is easy to explain. From day one Brasserie has focused on familiar French favorites: steak frites, cassoulet, French onion soup. That the restaurant feels timeless rather than cliched is a credit to current executive chef Brian Moxey, who has kept operations razor-sharp. The steak still blushes red through the center, the skinny frites still crunch and the French onion soup still burbles richly beneath its Comté cap.
Hours: Dinner daily, brunch Saturday-Sunday
Last year's ranking: No. 20
Must order: Bistro steak with frites ($27.95)