The original location of Signature India hosts one of the most no-frills dining rooms in St. Louis, and it lacks the lunch buffet that many diners expect from an Indian restaurant in America. In spite of this, I return to Signature India more often than any other Indian restaurant in town for its distinct dishes, many drawn from India’s south: dosas that extend far beyond the edges of the plate; biryani piled high and cascading flavor; the beguilingly complex Gongura curry, the blistering Andhra curry. The adjacent bakery does offer a few frills; you can at least look at the treats on display while you decide what to order.
Hours: Lunch and dinner daily, breakfast Saturday-Sunday
Last year's ranking: Rest of the Best
Must order: Gongura goat curry ($16.49)