￼Ted Wilson and Sean Netzer have fit three distinct identities into Union Loafers’ modest space. First and foremost, this is a bread bakery, and if it were only a bread bakery, it would be on this list for Wilson’s loaves, as crusty, perfectly chewy and full of tangy, naturally leavened flavor as any in town. At lunch, Union Loafers is a cafe, and if it were only a cafe, it would be on this list for its sandwiches — roast beef, roasted pork and especially the smoked beet — served on Wilson’s breads. At dinner, Union Loafers is a pizzeria, and (say it with me), if it were only a pizzeria, it would be on this list for its best-in-town New York pizza. I can’t put it on the list three times, but I can promote it to the Top 25.
Hours: Lunch Wednesday-Sunday, dinner Wednesday-Saturday (closed Monday-Tuesday)
Last year's ranking: Rest of the Best
Must order: Pepperoni pizza ($23)