Dough made me a fan of Scott Sandler. First, there was the Neapolitan-style dough he crafted at Pizzeoli in Soulard, which for a too-brief time was St. Louis’ best pizzeria. Sandler sold Pizzeoli in 2017, though, and focused on his South Grand New York-style pizzeria, Pizza Head. The dough here is, by design, less complex in flavor and structure than the Neapolitan style, but it still makes for a fine crust. But over my return visits I’ve realized cheese is what I love most about Pizza Head. Or, rather, how cheese covers Pizza Head’s crust. Sandler has nailed the ratio of stringy, melted, low-moisture mozzarella to crust. A slice is a meal itself, and a whole pie ensures leftovers to be savored cold.
Hours: Lunch and dinner daily
Last year's ranking: Rest of the Best