Photo by J.B. Forbes (Post-Dispatch)
Union Loafers
Sean Netzer and Ted Wilson’s Union Loafers has established itself as an indispensable bread bakery, pizzeria and lunch cafe. The first two accomplishments might not be so surprising. Wilson honed his bread- and pizza-making skills at such acclaimed establishments as New York City’s Sullivan Street Bakery and, in St. Louis, Mike Randolph’s late, beloved Neapolitan pizzeria the Good Pie. His sourdough breads are beautifully structured and complexly flavored, and Union Loafers’ pizza is unique — New York-ish, but with an airiness and aggressive blistering more reminiscent of Neapolitan pies. But if the crowds are any indication, Union Loafers might be its best self at lunch, when pizza isn’t available, not all of the sandwiches are served on sourdough bread and some of the best dishes (the Little Gem salad, the kale-garbanzo soup) aren’t bread-based at all.
Hours: Lunch Tuesday-Sunday, dinner Wednesday-Saturday (closed Monday-Tuesday)
Last year's ranking: No. 25
Opened: 2015