Grace Meat + Three
Who was St. Louis' chef of the past decade? Rick Lewis merits strong consideration. He burst onto the scene at Quincy Street Bistro (owned by wife Elisa's parents), where he found an exciting thread through everyday bar fare, Southern cuisine and St. Louis tradition. With the Pappy's Smokehouse team, he opened Southern, focusing on Nashville hot chicken, though it was the sandwich menu that showcased Lewis' range. Finally, he debuted his own restaurant, Grace Meat + Three, and here his talent has flourished. He has refined his signature fare (fried chicken, the fried-bologna sandwich) and introduced equally compelling dishes (slow-roasted brisket, ribs with a raw-sugar glaze). Lewis continues to develop new ideas. Last fall, he opened Grace Chicken + Fish, a walk-up window on the Tower Grove Avenue side of the restaurant that serves fried chicken, shrimp and more from 11 p.m. to 3 a.m. Friday and Saturday.
Hours: Dinner Wednesday-Sunday, lunch Wednesday-Friday, brunch Saturday-Sunday (closed Monday-Tuesday)
Last year's ranking: No. 16
Opened: 2017