Ian Froeb's STL 100

Photo by Sid Hastings


J. Devoti Trattoria

Anthony Devoti's decision to recast his acclaimed Five Bistro as the more casual J. Devoti Trattoria struck me as smart when I reviewed the new restaurant two years ago. Why not open up Devoti's cooking to a broader audience with pizza, a burger and a kids menu alongside his seasonally driven fare? When I returned to J. Devoti for this year's list, the decision made even more sense. On this visit, the obligatory phone photo I took of my meal — a rack of lamb, an ideal medium-rare, with chanterelles and braised white beans — didn't turn out great. Frustrated, I instead posted a text description on Instagram, concluding: “Eat at J. Devoti Trattoria, where ... Devoti & team aren't flashy, they just know how to cook.” The sentiment received as many likes as any photo I shared on Instagram last year.

Hours: Dinner Wednesday-Saturday (closed Sunday-Tuesday)

Last year's ranking: No. 21

Opened: 2018

Many St. Louis-area restaurants are closed or limiting their dining options during the coronavirus pandemic.