￼With the opening of the progressive tasting-menu Privado, Público is no longer Mike Randolph’s showcase restaurant. Which suits Pùblico just fine. As exciting as it was when it opened, and as excellent as it remains now, Público has always been a fun restaurant at heart. Sure, you can study how Randolph and his team, led by chef de cuisine Bryan Russo, continue to play with the intersection of Latin American, Western and other culinary traditions, as in the recent dish noquis, masa gnocchi served with beef braised in red chile. (Or in classic Público dishes such as the everything-bagel-esque smoked whitefish tacos.) Or you can gather a group and share the signature small plates (the arepa hidago, the sweetbreads with habanero and pineapple) and the large-format wood-fired steaks and whole fish.
Hours: Dinner Tuesday-Sunday (closed Monday)
Last year's ranking: No. 5
Must order: Higado arepa ($10)