Ian Froeb's STL 100 (2018 archive)

Photo by Cristina M. Fletes (Post-Dispatch)


The Crossing

Returning to the Crossing for dinner is like slipping your favorite album onto the turntable, except each time you’re unwrapping a new 180-gram audophile vinyl pressing of said album. The faces of the front-of-house staff are often familiar — a rarity these days — and owner Jim Fiala and recently promoted executive chef Thu Rein Oo maintain high standards in the kitchen. But as familiar as the Crossing can be, it never feels old or, worse, tired. Classic dishes (housemade tagliatelle with Bolognese) are vibrant, and trendy dishes (the ubiquitious sauteed octopus, here served with sauce verte, capers and salmon tonnato) seem timeless. Another thing that hasn’t changed: The tasting menus ($35, $50 or $85) are an incredible value.

Hours: Dinner Monday-Saturday, lunch Monday-Friday

Last year's ranking: No. 12

Opened: 1998

Must order: Tasting menu (four courses, $35 Classic or $50 Premium)